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Tuesday, 21 September 2010 16:45

Sparks, MD: Milton Inn Restaurant

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Jumbo crabcake with imperial sauce atop a grilled filet of beef Jumbo crabcake with imperial sauce atop a grilled filet of beef MCCN photo by Monica Johnson

In Sparks, Maryland, just a stones throw away from the Hunt Valley Town Centre and the collection of chain restaurants and assorted eateries, you will find a place where dining is pure delight. Starting with the old fieldstone architecture, The Milton Inn guests will feel like they are walking into history and they are. The building was built around 1740 and among its many incarnations, it was an academy for boys which had one very infamous student on its rollbook — John Wilkes Booth, assassin of President Abraham Lincoln.

rsz_brian_bostonWhen I arrived Executive Chef and owner, Brian Boston was just heading up to his office with a styrofoam take-out carrier in his hand. At 5pm, he was just settling down to get something to eat for lunch. It was Restaurant Week in Baltimore and The Milton Inn was inundated with reservations.  Chef Boston graciously took some time to talk with MCCN as he took a break before the  dinner rush.


 

The Milton Inn is steeped in history — 270 years of history to be exact, but it’s still making its own noise as the winner of the The Distinguished Restaurants of North America (North America’s highest restaurant award). Not too shabby, for a little fieldstone restaurant on a country road. The decor is reminiscent of a time long ago when American families sat down to eat together or when ladies convened to have spots of tea and conversation. It’s a welcome quiet and intimate respite from tthe normal restaurant experience.  The clientele of The Milton Inn expect the best  from their experience. Chef Boston says, “There’s a certain standard in which we have to present in a venue like this. We don’t serve chicken wings.”  Further explaining,” Not that someone wouldn’t eat them, but it just doesn’t fit. It doesn’t make sense in this location.”

rsz_1clams_casinoWhat does make sense in that location is the traditional American cuisine that merited the DiRoNA award.   MCCN asked Chef Boston  what he considers American cuisine? Boston stated,“ American cuisine encompasses a lot of different culture because it’s a melting pot. It’s a collaboration of things. It could be Creole... it could be a lot of different things.” At the Milton Inn, Chef Boston puts a twist on the American experience by using American food based in a French history like a rack of lamb or roasted duck. He explains, “All of our food is more to the French side.”

rsz_gazpachoBeing a Maryland native, Chef Boston knows just what his local clientele likes, so through the year regional faves appear on the menu, like: oyster stew, crab soup — traditional Maryland fare. The menu also extends to add other regions as well. ”Seasonality plays a lot into what the menu might reflect.”  During MCCN’s visit, we tasted  the gazpacho, which included seasoned to perfection blackened shrimp and jumbo lumb crab pieces. Cool! Refreshing! Simple! Good.  

 The seafood didn’t stop there....we also had the Clams Casino, soaking in butter and garlic, and topped with bits of bacon, a delectable winner. Next, were the entrees. lamb chops, mashed sweet potato pave, and asparagus.  

 rsz_1lamb_chops_close_upThe lamb chops included one of the prized sauces (not gravy) that makes The Milton Inn experience so unique. Chef Boston explains, “ Our sauces are something that make us different than most restaurants. You probably can’t count ten restaurants in Batimore that go through the same process. I doubt you can count two of them.” So what’s the process? Think bare bones! Describing his process, Boston explains,  "We start out in  the beginning with whatever particular bone...we use lamb, chicken, veal, pork and we do the same process with all of them. (We) cook them down for maybe about 20 hours then they get strained.” Not finished yet! Then they get reduced which takes about another day to reduce them, skimming the whole time. Chef Boston describes the finished product, saying, “It reduces to the point  where the impurities come out. You are left with just the essence of whatever animal you are dealing with to make a sauce from...” Make no mistake, there is no flour to thicken the sauce, it is clear, pure an authentic. 

 The other entree was a succulent sight for anticipating eyes — a grilled filet of beef topped with a jumbo crabcake doused with Imperial sauce paired with fresh vegetables asparagus and potato pave. It was as good to the eyes as it was to the tongue. Rounding out the meal was the dessert, which was a chocolate frosted macadamia torte and my guest ordered the cheesecake, which was also as good or better as any you've tasted. The Milton Inn is a must for anyone who wants to understand what traditional American cuisine is all about. Our compliments to the chef! 

Visit the Milton Inn's website by clicking here!

Article by Monica Johnson

 

Milton Inn on Urbanspoon

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