You don't get more old-school Baltimore than the Avenue in Hampden—we're talking "Hairspray!" On the very street where the ever-popular HonFest is held annually is an eclectic little restaurant serving New Mexican cuisine called The Golden West. A lot of places lay claim to being eclectic without holding their weight, but eclecticism is epitomized in this restaurant where art is found not only on the walls but in the cuisine.
It's an artsy crowd that hangs out at the little Hampden restaurant, but talking to Xavier Schipani, the restaurant's Kitchen Manager, she explained families and even an older crowd coexists quite well with the young artistic collective. She also provided insight about the restaurant's cuisine, explaining that The Golden West owner, Chef Thomas Rudis, has an affinity for New Mexican cuisine, having lived in New Mexico some time ago. The Golden West takes their ingredients, seriously, even flying in their chiles from New Mexico for authenticity's sake.
Though New Mexican dishes are the primary cuisine, other fare is served as well. The Golden West serves breakfast lunch and dinner, but breakfast is an especially savory treat. My favorite dish, by far, was the French Toast. They make French toast in three unique ways, the way I had it was a nice thick slice of cinnamon bread topped with plantains and walnuts crowned with a generous dollop of vanilla crème fraiche, and served with fresh maple syrup.* Unbelievable. I didn't want to stop eating to try the other dishes, but I did. The portions are huge and just eating this alone is enough to fill you up sufficiently.
Another one of The Golden West's breakfast item pays tribute to the Presley family - Elvis and Lisa-Marie that is. Think gargantuan! Think creative! Think pancakes! The Elvis pancake is a tribute to the hound dog himself. Apple wood bacon is cooked right into the serving of two pancakes (the Lisa Marie is a serving of one pancake and the Elvis is two). The pancake, which is cooked in honey butter and spread with a dollop of peanut butter gets a sprinkling of powdered sugar and is served with maple syrup. It's a fantastic treat. The pancakes are huge, slightly irregular shaped and a perfect surpise for the eyes of kids and adults who most assuredly will be impressed with the awesome oddball creation.
I also tried the breakfast burrito which combined beans, potatoes, eggs, and chile sauce. This is one of the more popular items on the menu, but I wasn't in love with it. The burrito seemed like it was trying to do too much without a clearly defined taste. However, I will add that I took it home with me and upon reheating it a day later, the flavors congealed more and I enjoyed it better.
Let's get back to the awesome! It's not often that I see brussel sprouts on the menu as an appetizer, let alone fried brussel sprouts prepared in terriyaki sauce. Sounds kind of odd, right? Yes, but still pretty awesome and extremely tasty. Order this one. You won't be disappointed.
Last but not least is the Hangover Burger. No alcohol included just an organic dry-aged grass-fed beef burger with lettuce, tomato, bacon, cheese, guacamole and a sunnyside-up egg just to make it complete. It's an impressive sight...somewhat pretentious, but it's supposed to be; after all, it is a mother of a burger. They could have called it "everything but the kitchen sink" burger, but on the other hand, hangover is probably appropriate given that your belly is likely to hang over your pants at the end of this meal. The burger is more fun than fantastic, but it is good, and good enough to order, even for the novelty of it. It's served with garlic fries. The Golden West has many vegetarian and vegan friendly dishes, so meat lovers and veggie buffs can dine as one.
Food is an artform for them which makes every creation something to anticipate. It also explains their "no substitutes policy." Would you try to tell Leonardo da Vinci: "That Mona Lisa sure could use a bigger smile?" Then don't tell them how to make their Hangover Burger. You gotta respect a restaurant that takes its work seriously. The fun artistic edge makes it easy to admire in a world of uninspired chain restaurants. In the midst of its eclecticism, there is a real comfortability to the food and ambiance that makes you want to come back for more.

* Sometimes bananas and mixed berries are served with the French Toast instead of plantains. It also can be served with your choice of Granny Smith apples sauteed in honey butter
Article by Monica Johnson



